Sport Climbing: (Star ratings are out of 3)
Higgy Land:
Route info: Late Bloomer, 12.c *** (Kevan R, 2017)
Description: This outstanding line starts under the left side of the roof on edges. Powerful climbing gains the roof with a final crux near the top. An area classic, must do.
Zone - The Frayed End
Location: Middle of the wall, left of 'Falling Up'
Notes: Hanging chain anchor with rings.
Eldred Valley:
West Main Buttress: Note - descriptions were given to me verbatim, will try and get more info or a topo photo for more clear directions on how to get to the start of the climbs. The West Main Buttress is the first large formation on the right side of the road (when heading north) passed the Psyche Slab. There is a small, one car only pull out, the trail heads towards the wall from just beyond this pull out.
Route info: 12 rounds with Boo Boo 5.11, C1, V1, F.A. Matt Hodgson, Evan Guilbault, Marina LeonDescription: N/A
Location: Accessing the right side of the pillar. From the sand bar @ the base of O.T.V, traverse the base of the wall out right through ferns & berry bushes. Once you reach the trees stay in the forest, keep traversing right as you drop a bit of elevation. Traverse all the way out right until you are within a few metres of the drainage on the far right side of the wall (from O.T.V, 15 to 20 min hike). A little sand bar with a 5 metre (5.4)crack, leads to a treed ledge. This marks the base of the next 3 routes. 12 Rounds With Boo Boo, The Sir Prize as well as Salvages In The Mist all share the same first 2 pitches12 Rounds With Boo Boo
Pitch 1: Climb up the slab angling left through a series of corners, as you make your way to a very prominent dihedral system above. Anchors just below prominent corner (5.9, 60 m)
Pitch 2: Climb up the corner crack through a lill overlap, as you continue up the corner crack you will see bonfire ledge on your right. Continue up the corner to the next ledge. Traverse right 3 m on the ledge to access the thin left leaning overlap. Climb up the overlap & mantle (crux)the corner on to a ledge, traverse left to the anchor
(5.10b, 60m).
Pitch 3: (Top contender pitch) A cpl moves of thin fingers leads to the beautiful hand crack. Jam your way upwards through slammer gear eating jams, then acquaint yourself with the incredible overlap. Reach out left to gain the overlap, climb the overlap up to a ledge. Clip the one directional bolt on the ledge & use the cedar "tree" to the right for an anchor (5.11a). One mantle & a 5 m traverse will bring you to the next anchor (5.7).
Pitch 4: Climb the obvious corner crack above. Continue up to where the big Sickle feature occupies the corner. Slap yourself up the double hand crack feature, clip the bolt & jam your way to the anchor. (5.10b).
Pitch 5: Jam your way up the corner crack ( 20 m) till you see a dyke traversing right, build an anchor above this (5.10b)
Pitch 6: Traverse the dyke 3 m (5.10) into the infamous Sir Prize dihedral system. Continue climbing up the beautiful corner through a lill off width section, then it's perfect hands to the anchor (5.10D)
Pitch 7: A tricky move off the belay ( yarding on cedar bows) leads to an easy scramble to the bolted anchor ( 5.9 R, this is where it joins On The verge).
Pitch 8: Climb the featured slab above clipping bolts to the next anchor (5.10, 45m)
Pitch 9: Continue up the slab past 5 bolts, then traverse right along a dyke to a belay ledge with 2 rap rings (5.9 , 55 m)
Pitch 10: Follow the very low angle ramp up & left to the next bolted anchor (5.8, 40m)
Pitch 11: Continue up & left around a corner, then climb steeper terrain past a bolt to a belay ledge (5.10, 55m)
Pitch 12: Just above the anchor mantle the boulder, then weave your way through large 10m blocks stacked on top of each other. Build an anchor on top of the blocks @ the base of The Golden Corners (5.10, 30m)
Pitch 13: Climb the beautiful corner above through the duck bill chimney feature, then build an anchor just below the off width ( 5.11, 40m)
This is as far as we got on this late season project in Oct 2017.
Gear: Two 60 meter ropes. A double rack of cams up to # 4. A set of stoppers, 12 alpine draws.
Route info: The Sir Prize: 5.11, C1, V1 F.A. Matt Hodgson, Brent GoodmanDescription: N/A
Location: West Main Buttress, see info on 12 Rounds with Boo Boo
Pitch 1: Climb up the slab angling left through a series of corners, as you make your way to a very prominent dihedral system above. Anchors just below prominent corner (5.9, 60 m)
Pitch 2: Climb up the corner crack through a lill overlap, as you continue up the corner crack you will see bonfire ledge on your right. Continue up the corner to the next ledge. Traverse right 3 m on the ledge to access the thin left leaning overlap. Climb up the overlap & mantle (crux)the corner on to a ledge, traverse left to the anchor
(5.10b, 60m)
Pitch 3: Follow a series of flakes up & slightly right to a double crack. Jam your way up the slammer double crack, then traverse left into the big obvious corner system. Stem & jam your way up the very featured corner to the next anchor (5.10c).
Pitch 4: Hand jams lead to finger jams before the crack widens to a burly off width finish (5.11).
Pitch 5: Climb the sustained stunning corner crack. It widens for a lill off width section, then perfect hand jams take you to the anchor (
Pitch 6: A tricky move off the belay (yarding up cedar bows) leads to an easy runout scramble to the bolted anchor (5.9R, 60m, this is where T.S.P joins O.T.V)
Pitch 7: Climb the featured slab above clipping bolts to the next anchor (5.10, 45m)
Pitch 8: Continue up the slab past 5 bolts, then traverse right along a dyke to a belay ledge with 2 rap rings (5.9 , 55 m)
Pitch 9: Follow the very low angle ramp up & left to the next bolted anchor (5.8, 40m)
Pitch 10: Continue up & left around a corner, then climb steeper terrain past a bolt to a belay ledge (5.10, 55m)n
Pitch 11:
You have two options here, from the belay you can climb the grassy right leaning crack to the anchor 5.7 ( watch out for loose rock). Option 2, above the belay head out right & climb up the shallow left facing dihedral past 3 bolts to the bolted anchor (5.10).
Pitch 12: Continue up past the cedar shrubs to a treed ledge. Belay off trees (50m)
Descent: Rappel the route
Gear: Two 60 metre ropes. Double rack of cams up to # 4 Camelot, single #5 & #6 Camelot's. A set of stoppers, a dozen alpine slings.
Amon Rudh:
This wall is the furthest, most remote wall in the Eldred. For access, refer to Powell River Rocks by Christie Dionne.
Pitch 1: The Canadian Classic Pitch: Climb up the obvious gear eating corner. The pitch gets increasingly steeper & more difficult the higher you get (5.10+35m).
Pitch 2: Climb up & right onto the ledge above. Off of the ledge jam your way up the double crack feature to a rest. Continue up the slot to gain gecko ledge. (5.9, 25m)
Pitch 3: Start just left of the anchor in a thin crack, with a horned dyke running parallel to its left. A couple hard moves followed by some slammer jams, leads you to a ledge with a bolt. Clip the bolt & traverse out right, a long move to the right gains a hand crack. Climb the crack until you are just below the shrubs. A good hold out left allows you to set up for a long move out left into a short vertical crack. Place a piece of gear in this crack, then traverse out left on the featured face & into the corner system. Climb up the wide corner to the bolted belay ledge (a very adventurous pitch (5.10+, 30m)). This pitch was originally done as one 60 m pitch. This station was mainly added to avoid a rappelling nightmare! Be very aware of the possibility of rapping over the massive ceiling & "Into The Void" while rapping the route!!!
Pitch 4: Climb the Jenga chimney system, make your way up stacked blocks to a little bulge in the chimney, stem your way up through the bulge & to the bolted anchor (5.9, 30m)
Pitch 5: Continue up the corner into a short burly off width. Climb the off width then continue up to the little ceiling over lap above ( death block up out left, make note of it so you can avoid it on the rappel). This is where the bolt ladder starts. A stick clip is recommended for anyone without freakishly long arms. A bolt kit would also be a god send here. Another bolt needs to be added above the highest bolt. This will make the pendulum out left less deterring. From the highest bolt pendulum out left to a crack, then climb up to the anchor( 5.10, C1 ).
Pitch 6: Climb the crack above to the ceiling, mantle the ceiling then head up the grove past a couple bolts to the next anchor (5.10).
Pitch 7: Climb the slab above to The petty Dwarf crossing. Yard your way through cedars to get to the rock face, follow the face up & way out left to where the big ledge opens up.
Pitch 8: On the far left of the P.D.C head up the bushy corner (alt. stay on clean unprotected face) & out on to the nicely featured slab. Climb up the obvious left-facing dihedral to the bolted belay (5.7, 30 or 35m)
Pitch 9: Face climb out left past two well-spaced bolts (5.7) and up the beautiful flake. A reachy move takes you to the next ledge system with a tree belay (5.9, 40m)
Pitch 10: Head up easy, unprotected groove. Gear belay (5.6 R, 30 m)
Pitch 11: A 3rd class goat highway brings you to the summit of Amon Rudh ( take a mental note of where you are here, this part can get confusing to back track on your way down).Continue up to the true summit. No that is not a mirage, it is a magnificent tarn before your eyes. Fill your water jugs then dunk your ass in as you take in the first incredible view!
Rappel the route while being mindful of the big arching ceiling as you approach it on your rappel!
Gear: Two 60 metre ropes. A double rack of cams up to # 4, a set of stoppers, 12 alpine slings. Some duck tape & a knife to make a stick clip( grab a branch in the forest).
Carag Dur:
Route Info: Building Gondolin, II 5.11a, 240m, FA Evan Guibault and Crew.
Approach: To reach Carag Dur, walk through the campsite and follow the trail towards the river. Zip across the tyrolean (should be a fixed pulley on this line). Once across the river, head up the obvious trail, follow trail markers (arrow signs on trees). Once at the base of the wall, the trail traverses near the base through scrub. Towards the end of the wall you will see this obvious line near a large fallen log.
Topo and pitch descriptions: http://prclimbing.blogspot.ca/2017/12/topo-for-building-gondolin.html
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