New Routes

Powell River is infamous for having a lack of information on its climbing. With a new guide book coming out soon, this page will serve as place to find some updates and new routes. Like any guide book, by time it is published there will already be new routes that weren't recorded. If you have new route info, please contact me prbouldering@gmail.com.


Sport Climbing:   (Star ratings are out of 3)

Higgy Land:


Route info: Late Bloomer, 12.c ***  (Kevan R, 2017)
Description: This outstanding line starts under the left side of the roof on edges. Powerful climbing gains the roof with a final crux near the top. An area classic, must do.
Zone - The Frayed End
Location: Middle of the wall, left of 'Falling Up'
Notes: Hanging chain anchor with rings.



Eldred Valley:


West Main Buttress:   Note - descriptions were given to me verbatim, will try and get more info or a topo photo for more clear directions on how to get to the start of the climbs. The West Main Buttress is the first large formation on the right side of the road (when heading north) passed the Psyche Slab. There is a small, one car only pull out, the trail heads towards the wall from just beyond this pull out.


Route info: 12 rounds with Boo Boo 5.11, C1, V1, F.A. Matt Hodgson, Evan Guilbault, Marina LeonDescription: N/A
Location: Accessing the right side of the pillar. From the sand bar @ the base of O.T.V, traverse the base of the wall out right through ferns & berry bushes. Once you reach the trees stay in the forest, keep traversing right as you drop a bit of elevation. Traverse all the way out right until you are within a few metres of the drainage on the far right side of the wall (from O.T.V, 15 to 20 min hike). A little sand bar with a 5 metre (5.4)crack, leads to a treed ledge. This marks the base of the next 3 routes. 12 Rounds With Boo Boo, The Sir Prize as well as Salvages In The Mist all share the same first 2 pitches12 Rounds With Boo Boo 

Pitch 1: Climb up the slab angling left through a series of corners, as you make your way to a very prominent dihedral system above. Anchors just below prominent corner (5.9, 60 m)

Pitch 2: Climb up the corner crack through a lill overlap, as you continue up the corner crack you will see bonfire ledge on your right. Continue up the corner to the next ledge. Traverse right 3 m on the ledge to access the thin left leaning overlap. Climb up the overlap & mantle (crux)the corner on to a ledge, traverse left to the anchor
(5.10b, 60m).

Pitch 3: (Top contender pitch) A cpl moves of thin fingers leads to the beautiful hand crack. Jam your way upwards through slammer gear eating jams, then acquaint yourself with the incredible overlap. Reach out left to gain the overlap, climb the overlap up to a ledge. Clip the one directional bolt on the ledge & use the cedar "tree" to the right for an anchor (5.11a). One mantle & a 5 m traverse will bring you to the next anchor (5.7).

Pitch 4: Climb the obvious corner crack above. Continue up to where the big Sickle feature occupies the corner. Slap yourself up the double hand crack feature, clip the bolt & jam your way to the anchor. (5.10b).

Pitch 5: Jam your way up the corner crack ( 20 m) till you see a dyke traversing right, build an anchor above this (5.10b)

Pitch 6: Traverse the dyke 3 m (5.10) into the infamous Sir Prize dihedral system. Continue climbing up the beautiful corner through a lill off width section, then it's perfect hands to the anchor (5.10D)

Pitch 7: A tricky move off the belay ( yarding on cedar bows) leads to an easy scramble to the bolted anchor ( 5.9 R, this is where it joins On The verge).

Pitch 8: Climb the featured slab above clipping bolts to the next anchor (5.10, 45m)


Pitch 9: Continue up the slab past 5 bolts, then traverse right along a dyke to a belay ledge with 2 rap rings (5.9 , 55 m)


Pitch 10: Follow the very low angle ramp up & left to the next bolted anchor (5.8, 40m)

Pitch 11: Continue up & left around a corner, then climb steeper terrain past a bolt to a belay ledge (5.10, 55m)

Pitch 12: Just above the anchor mantle the boulder, then weave your way through large 10m blocks stacked on top of each other. Build an anchor on top of the blocks @ the base of The Golden Corners (5.10, 30m)

Pitch 13: Climb the beautiful corner above through the duck bill chimney feature, then build an anchor just below the off width ( 5.11, 40m)
This is as far as we got on this late season project in Oct 2017.

Gear: Two 60 meter ropes. A double rack of cams up to # 4. A set of stoppers, 12 alpine draws.




Route info: The Sir Prize: 5.11, C1, V1 F.A. Matt Hodgson, Brent GoodmanDescription: N/A
Location: West Main Buttress, see info on 12 Rounds with Boo Boo

Pitch 1: Climb up the slab angling left through a series of corners, as you make your way to a very prominent dihedral system above. Anchors just below prominent corner (5.9, 60 m)

Pitch 2: Climb up the corner crack through a lill overlap, as you continue up the corner crack you will see bonfire ledge on your right. Continue up the corner to the next ledge. Traverse right 3 m on the ledge to access the thin left leaning overlap. Climb up the overlap & mantle (crux)the corner on to a ledge, traverse left to the anchor
(5.10b, 60m)

Pitch 3: Follow a series of flakes up & slightly right to a double crack. Jam your way up the slammer double crack, then traverse left into the big obvious corner system. Stem & jam your way up the very featured corner to the next anchor (5.10c).

Pitch 4: Hand jams lead to finger jams before the crack widens to a burly off width finish (5.11).

Pitch 5: Climb the sustained stunning corner crack. It widens for a lill off width section, then perfect hand jams take you to the anchor (
Pitch 6: A tricky move off the belay (yarding up cedar bows) leads to an easy runout scramble to the bolted anchor (5.9R, 60m, this is where T.S.P joins O.T.V)

Pitch 7: Climb the featured slab above clipping bolts to the next anchor (5.10, 45m)

Pitch 8: Continue up the slab past 5 bolts, then traverse right along a dyke to a belay ledge with 2 rap rings (5.9 , 55 m)

Pitch 9: Follow the very low angle ramp up & left to the next bolted anchor (5.8, 40m)

Pitch 10: Continue up & left around a corner, then climb steeper terrain past a bolt to a belay ledge (5.10, 55m)n

Pitch 11: 
You have two options here, from the belay you can climb the grassy right leaning crack to the anchor 5.7 ( watch out for loose rock). Option 2, above the belay head out right & climb up the shallow left facing dihedral past 3 bolts to the bolted anchor (5.10).

Pitch 12: Continue up past the cedar shrubs to a treed ledge. Belay off trees (50m)

Descent: Rappel the route 

Gear: Two 60 metre ropes. Double rack of cams up to # 4 Camelot, single #5 & #6 Camelot's. A set of stoppers, a dozen alpine slings.



Amon Rudh: 
This wall is the furthest, most remote wall in the Eldred. For access, refer to Powell River Rocks by Christie Dionne.

Route info: The Mormegil 5.11, C1, V1, 500 m

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