Thursday, 15 June 2017

New Area in the Eldred - The Sanctuary - Single Pitch Boulders

Lots of scrubbing has been going on across the river at 32 mile. Matt Hodgson discovered this area a few seasons ago, and has now put in a cable crossing. There's lots of mini single pitch cracks as well as potential for good bouldering, likely many highballs. Here's some photos of some of the lines.  So far about 20 crack lines have been discovered averaging in the 12m range. 
Matt H on Culture Shock. Cleaned by Evan and Zoe, FA by Kris Mutafov

A much longer than it looks in the photo hands traverse. Got pump?


Highball, route, or both?


Jesse Taplin Sends 3 Projects in B Branch

Jesse Taplin of Victoria visited the Eldred recently and made quick work of three open projects. The grades are from V7 to V9 ish.


Heres a video a quick power problem on the Communication boulder. Starts as for Doobie Sloth but moves right instead of left.
video

Video of Jesse finding the proper beta for the project on the back of the Azul boulder (which he graded around V8) can be seen here.

He also climbed the overhanging triangular boulder just up the trail (adjacent to the Tank boulder) which I had only tried a few times before abandoning due to a tweaked knee. I never thought much of it but I'm told that it climbs as good as any top 100 Squamish problem and is in the V7 range.

Updates will be published in the final bouldering guide - which I'll upload for sale online.



New Moderate Route on Carag Dur - Building Gondolin 5.11a

Evan Guilbault and crew have managed to push a route to the top of Carag Dur on the far right of the wall. Being on the far right the elevation is much lower, this route tallies up to only 5 pitches which will make for a great casual day out. 
 The first pitch was put up many years ago but had since grown over (along with a few other pitches in the vicinity). It's great to see this revival and hopefully it will open up the possibility of more routes on either side. 
Though Christie Dionne is working on a free route on the far left of the wall, for now this is the only route to summit Carag Dur since a young Matt Maddaloni aided straight up the middle of the wall with a friend back in '99!
From Evan's Facebook:
Eleven months later, and one more project is ticked. Thanks to everyone who helped out with this one. Colin Landeck, Evan Porter-Lockhart, Zoe Manson, Max Merkin, & Travis Foster and to the OG's who came before us.
BUILDING GONDOLIN II 5.11a, 5 pitches, 240m, FA: June 12, 2017
2nd route on Caragdur to summit ground up, first since 1999! THE line for any 10+/11- trad climber in The Valley looking for those sweet sweet splitter cracks. Easy approach, incredible varied climbing, cracks, dihedrals, pumpy, stacked and ready to go.
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Route info can be found here:
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/building-gondol…/112076968

Approach time 45 minutes, follow the carag dur trail to the wall and just keep going right until you see it. Hard to miss the first pitch as it's the obviously cleaned splitter.

As of now it still needs some cleaning, specifically the final 5.9 pitch. A topo will be posted on the sign board in camp when available.

This is sure to be a classic and will hopefully get a lot of traffic.