Thursday, 18 January 2018

Stunning New Route - Amon Rudh


Last season, the valley master Matt Hodgson teamed up with "young skywalker" Evan Guibalt to finish up a Stunning vision that Matt has been working on.  Though Amon is the furthest wall in the valley and has the longest approach, it likely holds the best potential for clean free climbing in the Eldred.

12 Rounds with Boo Boo, 14 Pitches, 5.11 C1


From Matt's FB:

"The latest PROUD addition to Amon Rudh!! A young sky walker & myself have added another 9 pitches onto the route 12 Rounds With Boo Boo.
You climb the first 4 pitches of 12 Rounds to the top of the sickle. You then climb 20 m up the corner crack until you see a perfect dyke traversing right for 3 m. You traverse the dyke (5.10)into the top of The Sir Prize. It conveniently brings you just above the off width. You climb the beautiful Prize corner into On The Verge, follow OTV for 4 pitches before heading out left to the Golden corners.
12 Rounds With Boo Boo
14 pitches 5.11 C1"


Crux of P4

P2

Brent Goodman FAing the Salvages in the Mist pitch


Evan styling the 3m traverse into the Sir Prize pitch
The aptly named Sir Prize pitch


Sunday, 17 December 2017

Topo for Building Gondolin

Found this on my old phone - classic napkin format topo of Evan Guibault's et al's free route, Building Gondolin on Carag Dur.



Eye Candy

A video reel with some Daniels Valley easter eggs (1:45-1:50)  and the stunning crux pitch 10 of  Sacred Stone can be seen at 2:47.


Click here --- >   Wildland Media Demo Reel

Tuesday, 12 December 2017

FA of Another New Big Wall - Daniels Valley

Evan Guilbault and Colin Landeck put a route up in the Daniels this past summer. That's two walls climbed now, could be the beginning of something...


From Evan Guibault's FB.


"If you would have told me two weeks ago that I was about to put up a 5000ft technical rock route, I probably would have shyly smiled while my eyes scanned the horizon and gently changed the subject. This topo validates years and years of vision honed in the mythical Coast Range, my home. Sacred Stone exists; a dream that is real. 27 pitches of dream climbing. 1600 metres, 5250 ft....I'm ready for more."

"
BEEEEAUUUUTIFUL BIG WALLS!!!! Young Stokemaster Colin Landeck & myself have just returned from the adventure of our lives. 11 days in literal heaven on earth...paradise; 5 days on the Big Stone; 3 days of continuous, perfect, magic flow ascending a stone no others had ever before...1600m (5250 feet) of technical rock climbing brought us to the summit of The Super Unknown, one of multiple gargantuan granite big walls in the Daniels River Valley. Thank you to all my loved ones for all your support, the power of vision cannot be underestimated, the Super Unknown goes. Climbed in 27 large pitches, Over 20 of 27 being FIVE STAR ***** Free climbing GLORY. Zero bolts were installed on this ascent, they aren't needed. Nothing in my life has ever brought me higher. The trails are built, the line is up, the stoke is high.
FA:
SACRED STONE VI 5.10 A1 1600m 
The Super Unknown
Daniels River Valley
Aug 10, 2017."

Heading towards the Amphitheatre

Bug net beta


Saturday, 5 August 2017

Massive First Ascent in the Daniels Valley

Travis Foster and Drew Leiterman made the first ascent of a massive wall in the Daniels Valley recently. The wall is called Red Alert, and they named the route Jungle is Massive - 5.10 C2, 25 very long pitches.
 To say the least, this is a pretty amazing ascent.

Check out Gripped's coverage, and a write up in Powell River Living for more

info.http://gripped.com/news/massive-new-big-wall-climbed-powell-river/


http://prliving.ca/rock-climbers-make-first-ascent-massive-wall/

Friday, 7 July 2017

Powell River's Hardest Climb

  Late Bloomer - 12.C, is now the most difficult single pitch climb in PR.  

Travis Foster of Cranbrook  recently came through town and hopped on my open project at Higgy Land. Naturally, I had to link up with him, pysched to have someone to work a project with. 
Over a few sessions, beta was refined, stoke was high and we made some solid links getting it down to two sections.

 Travis made quick progress, and likely could have snagged the FA before me but was gracious enough to hold back and allow me to send  first. He styled the second ascent the very next session despite it being 25+ degrees out.

The route has two back to back boulder problems and is guarded by a very pumpy final crux. The movement is outstanding -  and the natural line is an obvious stand out. It's definitely got my vote for the best route in the area, and not just because it's the hardest.
 Drew Leiterman , who is in town to join an expedition to the Daniels valley, took some beautiful shots the other day you can check out below (low res versions).
 

  Travis, Drew, and Squamish crusher Stu Smith are currently off on a 6 week quest  to  attempt to climb one of the biggest unclimbed granite walls outside of Baffin Island - right in Powell River's back yard. This wall has been whispered about for years...now the word is out and it may finally see its first ascent. This could potentially put Powell River on the map as a big wall destination. Even though the Daniels valley is very isolated...it's nowhere near as isolated as somewhere like Baffin.
Stoked to catch up with them wen they're back - follow Drew on instagram - Drewmagoo66 - as he's sure to have a ton of rad photos to share.




Phone photo of Travis on the first crux.

Me in the roof.

Me on the second crux.



Photo I snapped of Drew giving it a go.




Thursday, 15 June 2017

New Area in the Eldred - The Sanctuary - Single Pitch Boulders

Lots of scrubbing has been going on across the river at 32 mile. Matt Hodgson discovered this area a few seasons ago, and has now put in a cable crossing. There's lots of mini single pitch cracks as well as potential for good bouldering, likely many highballs. Here's some photos of some of the lines.  So far about 20 crack lines have been discovered averaging in the 12m range. 
Matt H on Culture Shock. Cleaned by Evan and Zoe, FA by Kris Mutafov

A much longer than it looks in the photo hands traverse. Got pump?


Highball, route, or both?